Canggu Day 3, Surf Day!!

The next morning I had my surf lesson at noon. Beforehand I got the most delectable brioche french toast with strawberries, whip cream, and syrup. It was so delicious I was in heaven. But, it was super sweet I struggled to finish it. I would have loved to split that with someone, I was really missing Izzy in that moment, us always splitting a savory and sweet breakfast. I did get a side of tofu to help balance the meal, but that just made me more full. I felt a bit better about my order knowing I would burn so many calories surfing today that I justified it. And it was so delicious I’m glad I got it, i just wished I could've had it in a smaller size. It’s funny that I come to a place that has so much healthy food, yet I am eating so unhealthy because of all the vegan treats they have here. I almost never get to enjoy a vegan dessert because restaurants at home don’t have them. I need to get better at turning them down because they are way more common here and I am just not used to that luxury. 

I also got some coffee to fuel me for the day and energize me for my lesson. I mentioned I was a bit nervous, and this morning I was still mustering up the courage for this lesson. I was worried mainly from all of the stories of people hitting their head with the board or getting caught in the wave. I knew nothing about surfing and could see how my ignorance in the sport cultivate a bad situation like that. I listened to some hype music to get me amped and in the zone. I needed to switch these nerves over to excitement, hoping music would do the trick as it so often has done so for me in the past. Learning how to surf is on my bucket list and I wanted to be excited to go out there and do something I’ve always admired and longed to learn. I am out here living my dreams, the last thing I should be doing is wallowing in worry. So, I tried to snap out of it and know that I will have an instructor who will take care of me and keep me in good hands. 

My guide, Satria, picked me up from my hostel, he was actually dropping off Lisa because she had a lesson with him right before me, and he took me out to the beach to get set up to go out. Because I was super beginner, we had a mini lesson on the sand beforehand, learning how to get up on the board, some safety tips, and give me a chance to practice standing on the steady ground before trying on the bumpy waves. I got this super long board with a grippy mesh on top, an easier board for beginners to get up on, and he took out his slick mini trick board. Humbling to see where I am starting and where I could potentially get to. 

We paddled out in the water, I followed his lead as we had to get far enough out to catch the wave and be at a distance that I could ride it out for a while. I was really nervous to catch my first few waves, I knew the proper form and footing, but when you are out there on the board and the wave is pushing you from behind forcing you to make a move, panic sets in and you just do what feels natural, and that often isn’t the correct form. So my first few gos I tried getting up, but in a complete stir, I had terrible form therefore I fell off almost instantly. Thankfully none of my spills were too dirty, so once I popped out of the water, I would get back on my board to paddle back to our starting spot. After about my 4th failed attempt, I made it my goal that no matter how uncomfortable it might feel, to force my body to follow the proper form. Also, now that some of the nerves were shaken, I had better focus and more awareness of what my body was doing so I could pay more attention to making sure I was following the guidance he offered. I finally got up, stayed up, and surfed myself much farther than I had before. The wave got behind me which ended my run, but I felt so happy and accomplished to stand up, stay up, and ride it out for a bit. 

The rest of the lesson was filled with more of that. I would catch a wave, and feel something with the board or experience something new on that ride that when I would return to him, I had a new question. Between runs, he answered all of my inquiries while I caught my breath and rested as much as I could. It wasn't the getting up (going from a laying down to a plank to standing up within seconds), but it was actually the paddling back to a starting spot after a run that made me most tired. Plus, you had the endless waves that would push you back further as you tried to paddle out, at times feeling as though you went a few inches forward only to get pushed back to the same spot. 

There was a moment in which I got up and went pretty far towards the beach, meaning I had farther that I had to paddle back out. At the same time as this run, there were some massive waves that hit me, and I wasn’t sure what to do besides drop myself into the water and let the waves pass over me. I had my board attached to my foot, and when the wave went over my head, it pulled the board a bit, dragging me as well. I had about 4 waves this happened to me for, not having enough time in between to get back on the board and battle these from above. My guide knew I was in a sticky situation so after about the fourth time I did this, I saw him surfing towards me to help me back up on my board and let me rest a bit as I was so tired from surviving those crashing waves haha. We paddled back out, but then waited because the big waves took all of the energy that the ocean was now waveless. It was at the middle point of my lesson, I was so gassed but I didn’t want that to cut short my experience and learning so I pushed through. The long rest was helpful, and soon after I had one of my best runs. I had some waves that I got up ob but this one made me feel as though I could say I successfully got up and “learned” how to surf. 

The next few I regressed in my progress because I would either misplace my foot and tip myself off the board, or one run I fell behind the wave and lost the momentum, the other my rope that tied my board to my leg got caught on my instructor's fin so when I tried to pop up I couldn’t even make a move to stand. He felt bad for that one, but things happen and I just caught the next wave. Plus it was starting to get busier in the day so I had to dodge more people and jump off early to not hit them. Not to mention my energy levels were hanging on by a thread so that for sure was also a big factor for my plateau in progress and soon decline. 

It was approaching the end of the lesson and I asked for just one more good run before heading in. One attempt failed, but the second one I bundled up all my energy and excitement to capture the sweet feeling of riding a wave out in the ocean. I got up and rode it in, feeling so happy that I caught the wave and rode it with some grace just once more. I was so grateful to have been out there with such a sweet and helpful guide, to learn something I’ve always wanted to, and to spend time in the ocean in my dream destination. One thing that did cross my mind was me wishing my family was there. Growing up and learning how to ski, tube, or any water sport, my family would either be in the boat or sitting on the shore staring out and cheering me on. As I rode some waves successfully, I naturally gazed at the beach looking for my family to where their arms would’ve been high in the air, waving, and shouting in joy at my ability to stay up and get the hang of it. I missed that reaction from them, missed their company with me on my travels, and it felt a bit sad to not share that experience with them as they have witnessed me learn and progress in so many other sports. I guess that's what adulting is, your family won’t be there all the time to see the highs and lows in your life, and it was something I would have to get used to.

My guide saw right through me at the fatigue in my body, and offered to carry my heavy board to shore whereas I just had to hold onto his baby sized board. I gladly accepted that offer, now not the time to be my strong independent self and just take the help when offered. I drank tons of water and dried off on shore. I even got to shower the sand and salt water off of me. I had some thick sunscreen on my face because my guide let me use some of his before we left. He told me, “You need some of this. Your light skin will turn red and we don’t want that” haha yes, my pale skin was much more vulnerable to the sun than his, and I scooped up the zinc mineral sunscreen he held in his hand and I gave my face another coat. Good thing I did because when I got out of the water, I wasn’t burnt! Plus, I was given a water shirt, to help prevent a rash from the board as it was rough on the skin (normal boards aren’t this way but the grippy beginner boards do exactly what they say and stick to your skin). I had a bit of a rash on my lower stomach from when the water would push up my protective shirt, and also a bit on my knee (I think I used it to help get myself into a plank position). Nothing too painful though and the experience of surfing would trump any slight injury I incurred from it. 

We chatted a bit after the lesson, he gave me good recs of where else in Bali to take lessons, and he told me a bit about how he was trying to start up his own surf lesson business. That made me so happy to support his entrepreneurial spirits and train under him. I gladly followed his insta and know that I will for sure rec him if anyone is planning a trip to Bali and looking to learn. By the time the lesson was over, I gave him a big hug of thanks, feeling as though I made a new friend! He was in the thick of it with me, saw me get tumbled and wrecked by the waves, and would cheer for me when I finally caught one and rode it out. Such a sweet guy and I hope the best for him and his surfing business ventures!

I got back to the hostel, quite tired but also so refreshed from the ocean and feeling as though I chipped away at the heavy french toast sitting in my stomach all morning. A new hostel roommate moved in and I chatted with her a bit, so kind! Again, I love these new friendships. But, it was around 3pm and time for me to get some food. I went to another rec from Charlotte, I wish I had seen some photos of the food because there were some really cool meals, but I ended up ordering a messy sandwich and a sorta plain smoothie. They had instagrammable meals and I missed them in my ordering. I still enjoyed trying a new place and it had some good vibes. 

One thing I started doing in Bali was taking cab scooter rides. It's so much more convenient to get around the city compared to walking or in a car. They cost between $.50-$1, a small price to pay when it saves you a 20+ minute walk in the heat of the sun. Sometimes I compromise and take one there and walk home, doing this as I made my way to Crate Cafe, but then I walked home and called my mom to tell her about my surf lesson (yes, she took my call at 3am her time).

When I got back to my hostel I got ready because some new friends of mine that I met at the hostel, Katie and Lisa, wanted to take photos with me and I was grateful to have them do these fun girly things with! We took some photos at our adorable hostel and then went to the beach at sunset to get some there. 

After we watched the sunset on the beach, we stopped at a market where I got a bracelet, blue to symbolize the ocean where I learned how to surf, and a postcard (perfect one of the sunset and a surfer!). We then went to a pizza place where the two of them picked up some dinner, I was still full from my very late lunch, and then we went up to the bar area and chatted with some other hostel guests! I talked with people until about 10pm, we also played a game of beer pong but used water and small paper cups so the game was so long and involved no actual drinking, but I mainly just talked to Katie (the girl from the US moving to Bali). 

I didn’t sleep very well the last few nights so I called it kinda early and it felt so good to get some good sleep. Another great day in Bali, making history for myself and surfing for the first time! I felt so happy about having the courage and finding the strength to learn how to surf. Picking up sports when your older can be challenging, comparing yourself to the existing pros, but now I feel so fueled to continue my training with hopes to one day go out there without a guide and find a love for catching waves and being one with the ocean. But for now, I learn and I imagine the day surfing will turn from activity to lifestyle.