Amalfi Coast Itinerary: The Perfect 3-4 Day Travel Guide
- Hannah Nietfeld
- Jun 16
- 16 min read
The Amalfi Coast is one of those places that hits different in person. You can look at photos for years and still not be prepared for what it actually looks like when you are standing on that cliffside road, staring down at the Mediterranean below. Twenty miles of coastline, pastel villages tucked into the cliffs, lemon groves terraced up the hillside, and a narrow mountain road that somehow manages to hold it all together. Three to four days is not a lot of time, but it is enough to understand why so many people want to come here to experience the beauty firsthand.
My Time on the Amalfi Coast
I visited the Amalfi Coast while studying abroad in Spain. I traveled with my parents, after our Morocco visit, read my Marrakech blog coming out soon, we flew over to Italy for a week long Italian spring. We chose Amalfi as our first destination, with the dream of seeing the beautiful towns in the hills. We flew into Naples from Marrakech, and took a shuttle from Naples to Amalfi. We stayed in the town of Amalfi, not in the main center but a bit outside that had an incredible view of the sea.
We were there for 3 full days, wanting to make sure we had time to do and see everything we wanted. We visited during the off-season in April, however during La Semana Santa (Holy Week). I thought it was relatively busy in Amalfi but no where near the caliber of the summer months. As beautiful as it was, Amalfi was logistically challenging and nearly impossible to do on a budget. There's a handful of places in Europe that, in my opinion, are better experienced when you have money to spend, some being London, Copenhagen, Paris, and the top rank going to the Amalfi Coast. In this 3-4 Day Amalfi Coast Itinerary, I'll explain what we all did in the Amalfi Coast on smaller budget, what I wish I knew beforehand, and where exactly to splurge on your holiday getaway to Amalfi.
The Amalfi Coast at a Glance
Best time to visit: April - June and September - October. These shoulder seasons offer warm weather, manageable crowds, and lower prices. When we visited early April, it was warm enough to walk around with a light layer, but not warm enough to swim in the water.
July and August are months with the best weather but are intensely crowded, so much so that the coastal road can gridlock for hours, boats are packed, and accommodation prices are at their peak, all of which can take away from the experience.
May is arguably the ideal month: It's warm enough to swim, flowers are in bloom, and there are fewer crowds. My favorite month to travel anywhere in Europe is May and Amalfi is no exception. I visited Cinque Terre end of May/early June and the weather was beyond perfect and the crowds were still largely at bay. My time in Cinque Terre was what I imagined the Amalfi Coast to be like, truly La Dolce Vita.
November to March is quiet and some businesses close for the season, but the views are dramatic in moody weather and prices are a fraction of summer.
Recommended trip length: 3 to 4 days minimum. Three days covers Positano, Amalfi town, and Ravello. A fourth day adds a boat trip to Capri or more beach time. There are 13 official towns that make up the "Amalfi Coast" so you could spend even up to a week to visit more villages and have more time to relax and take it slow, as it should be enjoyed.
Getting there: I won't lie, this is the hardest part, that and getting around Amalfi. The closest large city is Naples (1 to 1.5 hours by car or bus), which is where you fly into. From Naples, the SITA SUD bus to Sorrento connects to the coast bus network. Salerno, on the eastern end of the coast, is accessible by fast train from Naples (45 minutes) and has excellent SITA bus connections to Amalfi town and beyond. Many visitors base themselves in Sorrento (at the western end) for ferry and bus connections across the coast. Or, for the most ease, book a private transfer here that will take you to/from Amalfi and Naples.
Where to base: Amalfi town is the largest town, centrally located, best transport connections, most affordable, so most people will chose here to be the base. Positano is the most beautiful, but the most expensive. The iconic "Amalfi Coast" city view you are likely most familiar with is not Amalfi town, but is actually Positano. So, if you want to stay in the picturesque town, Positano is the place for you. Another option is to stay in Sorrento, a budget-friendly mainland alternative with excellent connections.
How to Get Around: The SITA Bus and Ferry System
The greatest downfall of the Amalfi Coast is that it has no train line. You can only navigate it by bus, ferry, or car. Here is exactly how each works.
SITA SUD bus: The regional bus network is the most affordable and most complete way to move between towns. Buses run from Sorrento in the west through Positano, Amalfi, and Atrani to Salerno in the east. The main line (SITA 5070) connects these towns along the cliff road. A separate route (SITA 5110) runs from Amalfi town up to Ravello (15 to 20 minutes, every 30 minutes approximately).
How to buy tickets: You CANNOT buy tickets on the bus itself. Buy them in advance from tabacchi (tobacco) shops, newsstands (edicole), grocery stores, or the SITA booths at major bus stops before boarding. The UNICO Costiera 24-hour pass offers unlimited travel on all SITA routes and is excellent value if you plan to hop between towns in a single day. Validate your ticket in the machine on the bus when you board.
Important: In busier months, buses become extremely crowded, sometimes too full to board at popular stops. This happened to us in April leaving Positano to head back to Amalfi, three buses had passed without stopping in Positano because they were already full. I wouldn't rely on the bus during peak season, but if you do use it, try to arrive at the stop 20 minutes before your bus and have an alternative plan (ferry or taxi) as backup.
Ferry: Ferries connect Positano, Amalfi, Salerno, and Capri seasonally (generally April to October). Operators include Travelmar and NLG. Ferries are faster than buses between major towns and offer beautiful coastal views, but are more expensive and do not run in rough weather. Check current schedules at travelmar.it.
Private Driver or Taxi: This is the most comfortable but expensive option. For 3 to 4 people, splitting a private driver for a day is often reasonable and gives you flexibility the bus does not. You can easily find local drivers operate on the coast. Click here for a well-reviewed private driver. If it's in the budget for you, this would be my recommendation as its the most reliable. This ensures your trip to be both hassle and disruption free. Your driver might run into traffic along the narrow roads, but I would still take this option over the hopeless feeling you'll never get back to your acccommodation.
Driving yourself: Technically it's possible but strongly not recommended for first-timers. The Amalfi Drive (SS163) is one of the most narrow, hairpin-filled, cliff-edge coastal roads in Europe. Traffic jams are frequent in summer, parking is extremely limited, and the driving requires significant confidence on mountain roads. For a full day scooter rental, click here.
Once you figured out your transportation, trust me, planning the rest of your trip will be a breeze in comparison. Getting around Amalfi really detracted from my experience, and if you think this will be you as well, I would recommend going to Cinque Terre instead. It's just as beautiful, less crowded, more quaint, incredible hiking trails, and best of all, a train connects each of the 5 cities, therefore there's never a doubt that you won't get from one city to the other. It might be a controversial opinion, but its my honest take on visiting coastal Italy.
3-4 Day Amalfi Coast Itinerary
Day 1 - Positano
As I mentioned, Positano is the most photographed and most beautiful town on the Amalfi Coast. The pastel houses cascade down a steep cliff face to a small pebbly beach, with the Church of Santa Maria Assunta and its majolica-tiled dome at the center. It is genuinely as beautiful in person as it appears in every photograph, which is saying something.
Arriving to Positano by Bus
You'll want to arrive early. The SITA bus from Sorrento or the ferry from Naples or Salerno drop you off at the top of the town (for the bus, exit at the Sponda stop for the western section or Chiesa Nuova for the east). From here you walk down steep staircases and winding lanes through the village to the beach. The walk down is easier than the walk back up, so make sure to reserve some energy for the return.
Arriving to Positano by Hiking the Path of Gods
If you are coming from Amalfi town or any of the eastern villages, you could hike the Path of Gods to get to Positano, a beautiful cliffside walk/hike. There is very little elevation gain on the hike, but the trail runs along a cliff that drops off beside you, so this would not be recommended for anyone with a fear of heights. If you don't do it in the morning to get to Positano, you can always do it on your way out of town, but in my opinion, the hike is best viewed as you approach Positano from the East.
Spiaggia Grande
Positano's main beach is small and pebbly, with the town rising up behind it in layers of pink and white. Beach clubs take up most of the front, charging around 25 to 50 euros for a lounger and umbrella setup. If you want to skip the fee, there is a free public area at the far end of the beach. For your beach day, getting there before 10am makes a big difference. You could also do this boat tour of the Amalfi Coast that would allow you to see the incredible Positano city from the water.
Explore Positiano & Walk the Via Positanesi d'America
After the beach, the best thing you can do is just walk. The narrow lanes above the shoreline are packed with ceramic shops, lemon everything, and occasional viewpoints that stop you mid-step. If you want to get away from the shopping streets, take the Via Positanesi d'America, a staircase that winds through the residential part of the village. The views are just as good and the crowds thin out fast.
Praiano
If you have time in the afternoon, take the short ferry to Praiano. It is only about 15 minutes down the coast from Positano and the difference in atmosphere is immediate. Where Positano feels like it knows it is famous, Praiano is quiet, unhurried, and almost entirely local. There are no cruise ship crowds, no lines of tour groups, and no one trying to sell you a limoncello tasting. Just a small coastal village that has not been completely overtaken by tourism yet.
The main beach in Praiano is Marina di Praia, a tiny cove tucked between two cliffs with clear water and a handful of beach clubs. It is small, which means it fills up, but it is nothing like the scene back in Positano. There is also a second beach, Gavitella, that requires a short walk down some stairs but tends to be even quieter. Both are worth it for a couple of hours in the water before heading back.
Praiano also sits at one of the best sunset viewpoints on the entire coast. The Church of San Gennaro is perched on the hillside above the village and the view from up there looking back toward Positano and out over the water is the kind of thing that makes you want to stay longer than you planned. If your timing works out, try to be up there around golden hour. Ferries run back to Positano regularly in the evening so you are not locked into a tight schedule.
Dinner at La Tagliata
For dinner, La Tagliata is the one to know. It sits on the mountain above town, run by a local family, and the food arrives continuously in a set-price Neapolitan spread. The views are incredible and the whole experience feels like a proper Italian meal rather than a tourist trap. Book weeks in advance, as its incredibly popular.
Other Restaurant Recommendations in Positano Include:
Da Adolfo is the lunch spot everyone talks about on the Amalfi Coast. It is a seafood restaurant at Laurito Beach, reached by a free boat shuttle from the main Positano marina. The boat leaves hourly from 10am to 1pm and has a red fish painted on the side. It is casual, beachside, and one of those experiences that is very specific to Positano.
Chez Black is a classic if you want something right in town with a seafood-forward menu and a lively atmosphere. It is one of the most iconic spots in Positano and works well for a more casual dinner without venturing far from the beach.
Casa e Bottega is worth mentioning for a lighter meal or lunch. It has plant-based options, which is harder to find on the coast, and the space itself is charming. Good for anyone who wants something fresh over a heavy pasta dinner.
La Sponda is the splurge option. It is a Michelin-starred restaurant inside the Le Sirenuse hotel, lit entirely by candles, with a vine-covered terrace that is one of the most photographed dining rooms in southern Italy. Reservations are required and should be made weeks in advance. Not an everyday dinner but worth it for a special night.
Day 2 - Amalfi Town and Atrani
Amalfi town is the historical anchor of the entire coast. Between the 9th and 11th centuries it was an independent maritime republic that traded with Constantinople and the Arab world. Walking through the town now, you can feel the weight of that past in a way that the more tourist-polished villages on the coast do not quite have.
Amalfi Cathedral
The cathedral is the first thing you notice when you walk into the main piazza. The Cattedrale di Sant'Andrea dates back to the 9th century and the facade is this striking mix of Arab architecture with a striped bell tower that looks almost too dramatic to be real. Inside, the Chiostro del Paradiso is worth the roughly 3 euro entry fee on its own. It is a colonnaded garden of interlaced arches built in 1268 and it is one of those spaces that is genuinely hard to leave.
Paper Museum
If you have any interest in history, the Paper Museum is a surprisingly good stop. Amalfi was one of medieval Europe's main centers for paper production, using a technique that came through Arab trade routes, and the museum sits inside a 13th-century paper mill in the Valle dei Mulini. It walks you through the full traditional process and it is almost always uncrowded, which feels rare on this stretch of coast.
The Piazza del Duomo
After that, the best thing to do is slow down. The Piazza del Duomo at the base of the cathedral steps is where the whole town seems to converge in the evening, and the waterfront promenade is the right place to end the day with a limoncello and watch the light change over the water.
Tunnel to Atrani & Grotto dello Smeraldo
Two more things worth knowing before you leave the area. A 10-minute walk east through a tunnel in the cliff brings you to Atrani, which is technically the smallest incorporated town in Italy. It has its own tiny piazza, a quiet beach, and almost none of the tourist traffic that Amalfi gets. It is a short walk and a completely different atmosphere. The other option is the Grotto dello Smeraldo, a sea grotto accessible by ferry or bus from Amalfi. The interior glows green from the light filtering through the water, similar in concept to Capri's Blue Grotto but far less crowded and honestly just as beautiful.
For lunch, a fun activity that you can do in Amalfi is a hands on cooking class and farmhouse tour. Check out this highly reviewed cooking class!
Day 3 - Ravello
Ravello sits high on a ridge 350 meters above the sea, connected to Amalfi by a 20-minute SITA bus. It is the quietest and most refined of the Amalfi Coast towns. Ravello feels detached from the coastal bustle in the best possible way.
Villa Cimbrone Gardens
The most beautiful garden on the Amalfi Coast. At the far end of the villa grounds, the Terrazza dell’Infinito (Terrace of Infinity), a long balustrade lined with marble busts overlooking a sheer drop to the sea 300 meters below is one of the most extraordinary viewpoints in Italy. Garden entry approximately €7. Book in advance in peak season.
Villa Rufolo
Directly in the village center, this 13th-century villa and its gardens host the annual Ravello Festival, a classical music event of international reputation. The garden stage has some of the most dramatic concert settings in the world, with the sea as a backdrop. Worth timing your visit around if the festival dates align.
Ravello village
Explore the medieval center, the cathedral, and the ceramic shops. Ravello’s ceramics are particularly beautiful, hand-painted traditional Vietri designs in yellow and blue. For lunch, try Ristorante Salvatore has a terrace with extraordinary views. Budget options are available in the village center.
Day 4 (Optional) - Capri Day Trip
If you have a fourth day, take the ferry to Capri. The hydrofoil runs from both Positano and Amalfi and gets you there in 30 to 50 minutes depending on sea conditions. Capri is one of those places that lives up to every photo you have ever seen of it, which is not something you can say about everywhere on this coast. Or, take a boat tour from Positano or Amalfi and experience Capri from the water! The Blue Grotto, the Faraglioni rock stacks rising out of the water, the Gardens of Augustus, the village of Anacapri perched above it all. If you can time your trip for May, June, or September you will have a noticeably better experience. Peak summer on Capri is a different situation entirely and not in a good way.
The Blue Grotto
The Blue Grotto is the most famous stop on the island and worth doing even though it is fully touristic at this point. You transfer into a small rowing boat at the sea-level entrance and the guide tilts you back to get through the low opening into the cave. Inside, underwater light filters through an opening below the surface and turns everything an intense, vivid blue. It sounds gimmicky until you are actually in there.
The Faraglioni
The Faraglioni are the three rock stacks off the southern coast that have become the symbol of Capri, and the best way to see them is from the water. A boat tour around the island will take you through the natural arch of the smallest stack, which is one of those moments that feels almost too cinematic to be real.
Anacapri
For the afternoon, head to Anacapri and take the chairlift up to Monte Solaro. It sits at 589 meters and is the highest point on the island. The views over the Bay of Naples and back toward the Amalfi Coast are some of the best you will get on the entire trip, and the chairlift ride up through the terraced hillside is worth it on its own.
Where to Stay on the Amalfi Coast
Amalfi town (best overall base): central location, widest range of accommodation prices, excellent SITA bus connections to all towns, ferry connections to Positano and Capri, restaurants and grocery stores for self-catering.
Budget:
La Bambagina is a well-reviewed budget option right in Amalfi town.
A Scalinatella Hostel in Atrani is the most charming budget stay on the coast, directly on the small beach square, run by an incredibly welcoming owner.
Mid-range:
Hotel Lidomare in Amalfi is a beautiful mid-range family-run hotel steps from the cathedral.
Hotel Conca d’Oro in Praiano offers good value and village atmosphere slightly removed from the main tourist flow.
Luxury:
Le Sirenuse in Positano is one of the most celebrated hotels in Italy with a converted 18th-century nobleman’s house on the clifftop with extraordinary views and a legendary pool. Worth a one-night splurge if the budget allows.
Practical Tips for the Amalfi Coast
Buy bus tickets before you board: SITA tickets cannot be purchased on the bus. Buy at tabacchi or edicole before your journey. The UNICO Costiera 24-hour pass covers unlimited travel and is worth it for day-hopping.
Visit in the shoulder season: The coast is most beautiful and most manageable from late April to June and in September. July and August are extreme difficult to navigate with gridlocked roads, sold-out restaurants, and accommodation prices double or more.
Wear proper footwear: The Amalfi Coast is all stairs and steep lanes. Flip flops are not adequate for a full day here. Comfortable walking shoes with grip are essential, especially on wet stone.
Heat: Bring water and sunscreen at all times. The exposed cliff paths and beach areas get extremely hot in summer with no shade.
Limoncello and sfogliatelle: Try the locally produced limoncello made from Amalfi lemons which are bigger, more aromatic, and more acidic than standard lemons. Sfogliatelle is the Neapolitan pastry of layered flaky pastry filled with ricotta and citrus.
For vegan eating: The coast is seafood-heavy. Fresh bruschetta, grilled vegetables, pasta dishes without meat, and local salads are generally available. Amalfi town has more options than the smaller villages.
Common mistakes: Trying to do too many towns in a single day. The bus connections look fast on a map but the road is slow and the transfers add up. One to two towns per day maximum is realistic.
Next Stop After the Amalfi Coast
Naples: The closest city to the Amalfi Coast at about 1.5 hours by bus or train, so it naturally comes up as a potential add-on. The food scene is genuinely exceptional. Pizza in Naples is in a category of its own and the city takes that reputation seriously. The National Archaeological Museum is also worth knowing about if Roman history is your thing, and Pompeii is only 30 minutes away by train. That said, Naples is not a city I would push everyone toward. It is intense, the tourist infrastructure is thin compared to other Italian cities, and outside of the food and Pompeii there is not a deep list of things to move through. If that sounds like your kind of stop, go for it. But if you are deciding between Naples and Rome with limited time, Rome is the easier and more well-rounded choice for most travelers.
Rome: The stronger recommendation for most people. It is about 2.5 hours from Naples on the fast train and the shift in atmosphere is immediate. After a few days of bouncing between small coastal villages where the main activities are eating, shopping, and sitting on a beach, Rome feels like a completely different kind of trip. There is real history to move through, major monuments spread across the city, neighborhoods that each feel distinct, and public transportation that actually connects it all. It is the natural progression of a southern Italy itinerary and a much easier city to fill several days in without running out of things to do.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do you get around the Amalfi Coast without a car? By SITA SUD bus and ferry. Buy tickets in advance from tabacchi or newsstands before boarding, you cannot buy on the bus. The UNICO Costiera 24-hour pass is the best value for day-hopping. Ferries connect the main towns seasonally and are faster but more expensive.
Where is the best town to base on the Amalfi Coast? Amalfi town for the best balance of location, transport connections, and price. Positano if beauty and romance are the priority and budget is flexible. Sorrento for a budget base with ferry connections across the coast.
When is the best time to visit the Amalfi Coast? May and September are the sweet spots, warm, beautiful, and manageable. July and August are extraordinary but intensely crowded, expensive, and logistically challenging.
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